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PROJECT:VP6's Mission Objective


The sole purpose this article was written was simply to help you in repairing the bad capacitor issue that has plagued our VP6 boards.  I hope that you and your VP6 find it useful!!
 

 

Project:VP6
Installing the replacement capacitors.
Page 3 of 3

   This is actually the most simple thing anyone can even imagine!!  There is only one thing you really have to be cautious of, and that is the polarity of the new capacitors.  If you look at the marking on the motherboard where the old capacitor once resided, you will notice a 'half moon' white shaded area there.  The lead that is in that white area represents the NEGATIVE pole of the capacitor.  On the actual capacitor, the negative side is clearly marked with a 'minus' sign running down the NEGATIVE side.  If the polarity is wrong, the damage can be catastrophic to your board!!  Upon the first power up after completing this, you might hear a POP like a firecracker and your board will go POOF!!


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   There is one more thing that you might need to take into consideration.  This is in regard to the capacitor between the AGP and PCI1 slots.  Some of the aftermarket capacitors are taller than the low-profile cheap-o's used by Abit.  Locating exact replacements for these is like looking for arrowheads in the desert.  If the replacement cap is taller than the slot it can interfere with the heatsink on some video cards.  The solution to this is to simply solder the cap in laying on its side. (see photo's)  This might not be the most pretty way, but it works perfect!  Some say that the short length of exposed lead can cause shorts, and to some extent they're correct, BUT, if look at your VP6 and the thousands of other more vulnerable and highly exposed surfaces that exist, and then tell me this is more of a threat....  If the exposed lead does bother you, the best cure is to use a small length of heatshrink tubing and cover the lead before you solder it.  If you don't have any heatshrink tubing, you can insulate the lead with a dab of glue from your hot glue gun.


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Click image for full size.


   I also suggest replacing your CMOS battery at this time since you already have your VP6 out of the case.  They are certainly cheap enough, and could eliminate headaches down the road.

 


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To install the new caps, just do the following, and you'll have an A-1 VP6 again!!!

   1) Heat your soldering iron to 450 degrees Celsius.

   2) Insert the new capacitor fully into the hole, NOTING THE POLARITY IS CORRECT!!!

   3) Heat the lead of the capacitor and apply solder until you see it fill the hole.

   4) Use your side cutters or dykes and trim the lead off.

   5) Do that to all the caps you're replacing, and THAT'S IT!!  YOU'RE DONE!! 

   6) Reconnect and ENJOY your STABLE VP6 Motherboard!!!!

Project:VP6
The Aftermath of PROJECT:VP6

   Considering the fact that this board would not even POST prior to this procedure, I'd say it was a great success!!  Not only did she post, but she's rock solid also!  I ran her through a 36 hour burn-in loop using SiSoft Sandra Professional 2002 (SP1) edition, and this board never missed a beat or hiccupped in any way!!


Click image for full size.


Click image for full size.


Click image for full size.

   I hope this article helped you get your VP6 back up to snuff.  If you have any questions or comments, please join the forums over at Badcaps.net.

   I also want to take a second to thank everyone for emailing me with their comments, suggestions, appreciation, and success stories!  My inbox has been FULL the last few months with correspondence from this!  Also, a special thanks to York1 of VP6-board.com for mirroring this for me! 

GOOD LUCK!!!!!

 

Kabal's Realm
Last Updated: Monday October 05, 2015
Established December, 1997
 Copyrightę 1997-2012, Kabalsrealm.com